Phnom Penh, the Cambodian capital had a completely different feel to it compared to Saigon. Nowhere near as busy as Vietnam on the streets, but it was a little run down and generally had a darker and more edgy feel to it. I guess this was ok considering the recent history there, which is what we had come to learn about, especially us younger ones.
Our first morning would be a depressing one but a great insight into Cambodia and the Khmer Rouge. We visited the Tuol Sleng genocide museum which was a former school until the Khmer Rouge emptied the city of all educated people and their families and imprisoned them in Tuol Sleng in 1975. Walking through the museum feels like walking over a crime scene. We had a brilliant guide who was happy to share her experiences. It was really shocking to see the cells which have been left with the original furniture in and photos on the wall taken by the guards immediately after death. The museum was filled full of photos of the victims who died but also of the 7 survivors of the prison who were found in 1979.
After torture in Tuol Sleng, victims were transported to the Choeung Ek killing fields, 15km south of the city. It was here that they were executed and buried in mass graves. At first sight you wouldn't realise that Choeung Ek was mass graves. However when you look closely at the ground you see bones and clothing coming through the top surface of ground which was really shocking and a bit grim. I was very careful where I stepped despite all the main graves, the largest was of 450 people were clearly marked. Within the complex is a memorial stupa which has 7000 skulls stacked on top of each other. There were so many and yet that was such a small proportion of the people who the Khmer Rouge killed (3 million people in 3 years- half the population). Not all the victims from the graves have been recovered and every year after the monsoon, more bones are recovered. Not a job any one would want!
So after an eyeopening morning it was time for some light relief as we all got ready for Simon's 50th birthday do in the Foreign Correspondents Club. A great night was had by all as we got dressed up and drank rather fancy drinks at happy hour prices.
Another attraction of the city is the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda. Unfortunately I didn't quite make it in as I was turned away for not wearing a T shirt. Wasn't impressed as I'd dug out trousers and a very modest sarong for the occasion! Instead I had a little city walk nosing though some smaller temple gates.
After 3 nights in Phmnom Penh I was happy to leave as we headed to Battambang which is apparently the 2nd biggest city but an absolute dump, which wasn't helped by the very humid hotel rooms. Despite the lack of things to do in town we did have a couple of nice meals to celebrate Simon's birthday on his actual birth date and also Taylor's the following day. Battambang- another city happy to leave! We then got a boat to Siem Reap which is my location now.
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